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#SkinSchool: Everything you need to know about azelaic acid
Skincare's sleeper hit is finally stealing the spotlight – here's why
Azelaic acid probably doesn’t sound as familiar to you as today’s big skincare players. It’s not half as hyped as retinol, or as ubiquitous as hyaluronic acid – but this fortifying ingredient may just be the ‘active’ your skin is really crying out for.
If you’re attempting to keep your skin calm in the face of rosacea, or want to bring down a bout of inflammatory acne, this soothing brightener is your best bet for finding balance. Here, we explain everything you need to know about azelaic acid, from how to use it correctly to the products that work best.
What is azelaic acid?
According to Dr. Sam Bunting, cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Dr. Sam’s, azelaic acid is a “naturally occurring byproduct of a yeast that lives on all our skins. Specifically, it’s a dicarboxylic acid and it can also be found in grains, like barley.”
The benefits of azelaic acid in skincare?
While the most well-known acids work to either exfoliate (glycolic, salicylic) or hydrate (hyaluronic), azelaic acid is renowned for its calming benefits. “It reduces inflammation in the skin by its effect on the activity of Toll-like receptors, which sense our environment for danger, helping activate our skin’s defences,” explains Dr. Bunting. “In redness-prone skin these sensors are turned up too high and azelaic acid helps bring them back under control.”
That’s not all: azelaic acid is also a helpful antibacterial ingredient, which “reduces the tendency for our skin cells to clog up our pores,” adds. Dr Bunting. These two properties combine to make azelaic a powerful option for acne-prone skin.
Furthermore, azelaic acid is known as a ‘tyrosinase inhibitor’, which essentially means it can reduce the skin’s propensity for developing hyperpigmentation: a welcome benefit for those dealing with acne scars and melasma.
Who should try azelaic acid?
Dr. Bunting recommends azelaic acid products to almost everyone: “from redness and blocked pores to breakouts and uneven skin-tone, it’s incredibly versatile,” she says. “It also partners well with other actives – a real team player!"
"I’ve been talking about azelaic acid for a long time: I remember making my first YouTube video on it six years ago so I’m delighted it’s finally getting its well-deserved moment in the spotlight," Dr. Bunting adds. Indeed, azelaic acid is the central ingredient in her eponymous over-the-counter skincare brand, Dr. Sam's, which is one of the first to wholly embrace this ingredient’s remarkable benefits.
So why exactly is this brilliant ingredient so widely overlooked in favour of salicylic acid and retinol? According to Dr. Bunting, the fact that it’s tricky to formulate generally puts manufacturers off. “It sits in suspension, and can easily feel gritty on application, so a lot of brands won’t undertake the endeavour.”
Now, however, a handful of forward-thinking brands are embracing the challenge and delivering azelaic acid skincare that truly benefits those with a predisposition for redness and breakouts. When choosing a formula to try, Dr. Bunting recommends to “know the percentage of azelaic acid in the product and build up to your limit gradually - products range from 5 per cent and go up to 20 per cent (on prescription).”
“Look for 5 per cent if your skin is sensitive and you’re just getting started. Build up to 15-20 per cent as skin acquires tolerance,” (and seems to enjoy the ingredient’s benefits).
Who should skip azelaic acid?
Truthfully, not many of us. "Occasionally someone with sensitive skin will find azelaic acid hard to tolerate it but it’s extremely rare – we use it in rosacea after all,” says Dr. Bunting. “It’s also one of the few ingredients that’s safe in pregnancy and breastfeeding.”
The best azelaic acid products to try now
Products such as Skinoren and Finacea are widely prescribed for the treatment of concerns such as rosacea and acne, and today they're easier to get your hands on, thanks to the rise of online dermatology services such as the Bazaar-recommended Get Harley.
Now, there are several great azelaic acid products available without a prescription, from all-over daily serums to on-the-spot treatments. Here, see the ones the Bazaar team recommend.
SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment
Skinceuticals' gel-like moisturiser is one worth paying attention to if you struggle to bring down redness and breakouts in the warmer months. It's extremely light, yet provides enough moisture to make dry, tight skin feel soothed and hydrated. With a modest 3 per cent azelaic acid and 2 per cent alpha arbutin (a brightening antioxidant that tackles melasma and sun spots) it's a gentle yet powerful option for easily upset skin.
Dr. Bunting's own azelaic acid serum is a true favourite among the Bazaar beauty team – so much so, we gave it a Best of the Best award in the year that it launched.
Here, 10 per cent azelaic acid is combined with pore-clearing niacinamide and a gentle (read: acne-friendly) antioxidant to create a fast-absorbing serum that treats inflammatory flares, breakouts and uneven skin tone. Start with half a pump, every other day.
Drunk Elephant's latest launch has really impressed us in its ability to fade post-acne scarring. With a significant dose of azelaic acid cocktailed with salicylic acid, it'll help keep breakout-prone skin clear while fading all forms of pigmentation too. Apply it to cleansed skin in the evening – if you're very sensitive, try mixing into a simple moisturiser.
Skin + Me Azelaic Acid-Powered Night Cream
Online dermatology service Skin + Me now offers a small line-up of 'off the shelf' formulas, ready to purchase without a prescription. This one is targetted towards treating acne and rosacea, with an effective dose of azelaic acid in a simple cream base. Each vial is dose-controlled and designed to last a month.
This fast-acting gel is best for treating unexpected blemishes. Formulated with azelaic acid alongside niacinamide and salicylic acid, it'll take the heat out of an angry spot and restore order without upsetting your skin barrier.
This light and watery serum visibly brightens pigmentation – be it sun damage or post-acne markings – but you will need to use it consistently and patiently (miracles don't happen overnight).
Blending azelaic and salicylic acids, this concentrated serum is an especially good choice for blemishes. Liquorice extract, which helps to brighten lingering scars and redness, rounds out this brilliantly effective formula.
This one is less of a sensitive skin-soother and more of a power clarifier, working to eliminate congestion and resurface lingering scars with major effectivity. The azelaic acid serves as a calming counter to the heft dose of oil-dissolving acids, meaning you get brighter, more even skin without the redness and irritation.
Bridging the gap between over-the-counter and prescription skincare, Dermatica allows you access to a dermatologist without an in-person appointment.
Simply send the team photos of your skin, and they'll perform an in-depth analysis before prescribing you the best prescription-strength formulas, including this 20 per cent azelaic acid cream.
This Works Morning Expert Multi-Acid Pads
These swipe-on pads are soaked in a blend of AHAs and azelaic acid, so work especially well on dry, congested skin that needs a helping hand in the resurfacing stakes. Be sure to gradually increase your usage, and always wear a good facial SPF by day.
Blending 10% azelaic acid with CBD – the proprietary ingredient across Mantle skincare – this formula is strong yet soothing, tackling unbalanced skin, whether by way of breakouts or uneven tone. Apply a small amount to areas in need as the first step in your skincare routine after cleansing, or mix it with your serum/moisturiser to supercharge their formulas.
