A decade ago, skincare ‘actives’ (ingredients responsible for stimulating measurable changes in the skin) were rarely considered outside of a clinic setting, but now we’ve shaken off any fear of acids and retinoids, upping home doses with abandon – and in some cases, veering into over-use, resulting in a compromised skin barrier.
Indeed, resurfacing products have become the pawn in the industry’s mission to encourage us to slough off our skin's surface layers and obtain unified, smooth complexions (think ultra-reflective 'glass skin' or bouncy, dewy 'dumpling skin'). All the while, focusing on skin health over appearance has felt like a contrarian point of view. Until now.
The thing is, for many of us, those extra-strength, cell-decimating products that drew us in (regardless of whether our complexion really needed them) did the opposite of what was intended, leaving us feeling the burn.
It's all because skin is designed to keep certain things out – think environmental aggressors, pollutants and allergens – and other things (such as water) in, and it achieves this with help from the skin barrier. If your barrier is weakened you can experience a whole host of skin issues.
What actually is the skin barrier?
Technically called the stratum corneum, “the skin’s barrier is the outermost layers of skin,” explains industry authority Paula Begoun, founder of Paula’s Choice. “It is made up of a mix of very important protective and nourishing substances – including ceramides, linoleic acid, cholesterol, amino acids, and a complex assortment of fatty acids – which help prevent water loss and shield skin from environmental factors such as sun damage, pollution, and allergens. When the skin’s barrier is healthy, all of these elements work together to form and maintain the skin’s first line of defence to the outside world.”
Clearly, our skin barrier is an important ally – but, as Dr. Kemi Fabusiwa, director of clinic Joyful Skin confirms, over-use of high-strength skincare could be causing damage. “Many people damage their skin’s barrier unintentionally by piling and combining too many irritating actives onto their skin, unaware of the damage that they are causing to the barrier. For instance, combining two exfoliating acids, an acid and a retinol, or a retinol and vitamin C in one sitting is enough to irritate and inflame the skin, leaving behind tiny breaks in the skin’s barrier.”
The signs of a damaged skin barrier
“Barrier damage almost always involves the loss of skin’s vital substances (such as ceramides and fatty acids) which it needs to remain intact and smooth,” says Begoun. “These substances are the mortar that keeps skin together. When they become depleted or disorganised, skin loses its ability to prevent water loss and is less able to defend itself from external assault, which makes it vulnerable to dehydration, redness and itching. It causes noticeable signs of ageing in the short term and, if not corrected, in the long term as well."
The aesthetician Sofie Pavitt says that when diagnosing a compromised skin barrier she looks for signs such as "dryness, tightness, sensitivity to even gentle products, itchy or flaky skin, rashes or breakouts".
However, the symptoms of an unhealthy skin barrier aren’t always visible on the surface. “The problems a damaged skin barrier causes that you can’t see – at least not immediately – are collagen and elastin breakdown, an impaired microbiome, and abnormal skin shedding," adds Begoun.
The remedy needn’t involve ditching your active products – at least, not on a long-term basis. Ingredients such as retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids can be truly transformational, but it’s vital to use them in a way that respects, rather than challenges, your skin, working them slowly into a consistent routine and choosing formulas carefully.
If you’re seeing the signs of a depleted skin barrier, it’s crucial to first rebuild that outer layer – here, the experts explain exactly how.
How to repair a damaged skin barrier
"Barrier repair should focus on hydration, protection against free radicals and pollution, and nourishment in the form of occlusive moisturisers," explains Pavitt. "A lightweight serum such as a hyaluronic acid, layered under a rich emollient cream is a great approach for any skin type. Dryness will dissipate, oil levels will be rebalanced (dry sensitised skin with a weakened barrier will ultimately try to produce more oil to compensate) and you could see results from this in as little time as a month from working on repair." But be mindful of these five specific dos and don'ts:
1/ Avoid physical exfoliators
Both Begoun and Dr Fabusiwa agree that the first step to rebuilding a skin barrier is to ditch any physical exfoliants. “Resurfacing products such as harsh abrasive scrubs should never be used,” says Begoun. “Many people think using an abrasive scrub or a rough cleansing brush is the best way to exfoliate skin, but those create micro-tears in the skin’s surface.”
2/ Fine-tune your acids
If an active product seems to be too strong for your skin, don’t stubbornly carry on: in skincare, 'no pain, no gain' should not apply. “Switch to gentler exfoliating acids such as mandelic or lactic acid if glycolic acid is too strong for you,” says Dr Fabusiwa. What’s more, learn to spot the signs of inflammation: redness, swelling, discomfort and warmth. If you detect any of these, your skin is telling you to scale back.
Skin Rocks The Gentle Acid
As the name suggests, this toner contains the gentler cousins of the exfoliating family: mandelic and lactic acid. Unwanted irritation is nowhere to be found, instead, you'll be left with a smoother and brighter complexion.
Oskia Liquid Mask
A micro-peel that's kinder to your skin? Yes, that really is what Oskia has achieved with its Liquid Mask. The formula combines lactic acid with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and pro-vitamin B5 to resurface the skin overnight while steadily infusing it with hydration.
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid and 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant
A cult classic for good reason, Paula's Choice combines mandelic and lactic acid to create a gentle yet effective powerhouse liquid exfoliator that's remained a staple in many a beauty editor's routine for years. If it ain't broke...
3/ Rotate your actives
Spacing out your use of active products is the key to achieving results while respecting the skin barrier. “Don’t combine actives together in one sitting: for example, an acid, a retinol and vitamin C," says Dr. Fabusiwa. "Instead, use them on alternate days or one as part of your morning routine, rather than both at night."
4/ Familiarise yourself with barrier-benefitting ingredients
Now you know what to avoid, you can start looking at how to involve skincare ingredients which will help to strengthen and protect your barrier. Look for products that spotlight ingredients such as ceramides, which help to form a protective barrier and retain moisture; squalane, a moisturising and hydrating agent that's non-comedogenic; hyaluronic acid, a humectant that helps to retain moisture in the skin; and colloidal oatmeal, a soothing ingredient that works wonders to calm irritated skin. Thankfully, you won't have to look far, as you'll find these ingredients in an abundance in everything from daily cleansers to masks. Brands such as Rhode have even built their whole skincare range around a focus on barrier support.
Murad Soothing Oat and Peptide Cleanser
As one of the forefathers of using acids in skincare, it makes sense that Dr Murad would also create one of the best soothing cleansers on the market to counter any irritated skin barriers. This gentle formula contains colloidal oat to soothe the skin and niacinamide to help retain moisture.
Byoma Milky Moisture Soothing Cleanser
Proving that affordable cleansers can deliver on effectiveness, this milky formula helps to boost your barrier with oat extract and a triple threat of ceramides. Its packaging also features a handy who-does-what for all the ingredients in its INCI list, so you know exactly what you're putting on your skin.
Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser
Dermalogica's non-foaming formula is great for sensitised skin, gently removing the day's debris while strengthening your barrier. The cream-gel cleanser is pH-balanced and is fortified with oat kernel extract and cucumber, delivering a cooling effect to the skin.
5/ Never skip moisturiser
And finally, don’t forget to moisturise – even if your skin is oily, congested, or acne-prone. "Our skin’s barrier is also called the moisture barrier: the higher the water content, the better hydrated and therefore stronger the skin is. Dry, brittle skin doesn’t function the best that it can," says Dr. Fabusiwa.
Allies of Skin Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream Balm
Science is at the heart of Allies of Skin, and this cosseting, soothing barrier cream incorporates one of the most interesting innovations in scientific skincare — a biotechnologically produced moss known as MossCellTec™ which helps to heal and fortify the skin barrier. Bolstering the formula, you'll also find squalane, ceramides and oat protein for an all-out recovery remedy.
Rhode Barrier Butter
If you loved Rhode's Barrier Restore Cream, then its time to graduate to its new Barrier Butter. With a thicker, emollient texture, the Barrier Butter contains ceramides, peptides, polyglutamic acid and five (yes five) different weights of hyaluronic acid for a formula that floods the skin with hydrating and soothing benefits.
Aestura Atobarrier 365 Cream
Hailing from South Korea, Aestura is the barrier-focused skincare brand to have on your radar. Its Atobarrier 365 Cream contains encapsulated ceramide beads which dissolve onto the skin, leaving it with a smooth and plump finish, strengthening your skin barrier immediately and over time.
The best barrier-strengthening products
The skincare industry is now firmly taking a more barrier-positive approach, encouraging us to feed the skin with nourishment, rather than simply dissolving the 'bad' things away. Extreme acid products are out, and supportive barrier-building creams are in, offering an intensive recovery plan for over-stripped skin. Smart acids that can replenish while they exfoliate are coming to the fore (take note of poly-hydroxy acids), probiotics are booming, and fortifying niacinamide formulas are settling onto shelves far and wide.
Here, see the most promising products for building and maintaining a healthy skin barrier now.
StriVectin has long been creating products that help to fortify the skin barrier. This new cream contains a signature niacinamide complex alongside ceramides, cholesterol and essential fatty acids: everything a skin barrier needs to thrive.
Paula's Choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment
Dr. Fabusiwa recommends niacinamide for its ability to build back and strengthen the skin’s barrier. “It also has the added benefit of decreasing hyperpigmentation and reducing sebum production making it ideal for oily skin types,” she says, recommending this potent niacinamide serum from Begoun’s eponymous line.
Augustinus Bader The Ultimate Soothing Cream
Made with reactive and inflamed skin in mind, the new cream from Augustinus Bader's cult skincare line blends his signature TFC8 with barrier-strengthening niacinamide and anti-inflammatory black cumin seed oil. "It’s richer than the Rich Cream," professor Bader tells Bazaar, "designed for super-stressed, sensitised or sensitive skin". It's fragrance-free with a heavenly cocooning texture.
Perricone MD High Potency Hyaluronic Intensive Serum
Perricone MD’s director of education, Rosalba Martone, confirms that a weakened skin barrier can result in a range of skin concerns, from sensitivity and inflammation to acne flare ups and enlarged pores. "So, a key benefit of hyaluronic acid serum is that it strengthens and protects the moisture barrier, important for the skin to be hydrated." This one is created with four forms and two natural building blocks of hyaluronic acid to instantly replenish skin.
The Nue Co. Barrier Culture Cleanser
The Nue Co's Barrier Culture duo (there's an equally impressive moisturiser, too) is designed specifically to nourish a skin barrier in distress. Pre-, pro- and post-biotics provide the ultimate menu skin needs to rebuild, while the scent-free gel texture cleanses effectively without stripping. It's a promising choice for rosacea skin types and the extremely sensitive, too.
Sekkeizu AM Serum
Sekkeizu's AM Serum provides deep hydration, reduces inflammation and shields skin from premature ageing. Much of this is thanks to ectoin. "Derived from extremophilic microorganisms that have evolved to thrive in the harshest conditions on earth, ectoin has an extraordinary ability to protect and maintain cellular integrity," explains the brand's founder, Andjelka Maravillas. "It's not just a hydrator, but also a potent defender against UV radiation, pollution and other damaging environmental elements."
U Beauty The Barrier Bioactive Treatment
A great choice for sensitised skin, this soothing–while strengthening–cream calms irritation and redness while feeding the barrier with bioactive marine ingredients to restore resilience and integrity. Apply a mask-like layer overnight two-to-three times per week or as needed.
Glossier After Baume
Pavitt says, "I love products like Glossier’s After Baume for achieving a healthy and resilient skin barrier because it contains an intensely moisturising blend of plant-based ingredients, like cupuaçu butter, babassu oil and linoleic acid, to keep the skin hydrated and protected for up to 24 hours."
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Soothing Face and Body Balm B5
Ideal for damaged skin, eczema flare-ups and rashes, this rich, reparative balm locks in essential moisture and protects the skin from the elements. Suitable for the face and body. We also love the TikTok-trending Cicaplast Spray B5 version which goes on clear and absorbs quickly.
