#TheLIST: A Food Lover's Guide to London
Now you can eat like a local—just in time for London Fashion Week.
London may be known best for its typical British beige classics, like fish and chips served with mushy peas, sausage "bangers" and mash, Sunday roast beef and Yorkshire pudding smothered in gravy. But don't be fooled. The last five years has seen a monumental shift in the way Londoners approach food. Street-food markets have inundated the city and Michelin Stars are no longer mandatory for a mind-blowing meal. As one of the most multicultural cities in the world, London is embracing its unique advantage in the food scene—and it's being more celebrated than ever before. Here, BAZAAR.com brings you 12 ways to eat like a local when dining out in London–just in time for London Fashion Week.
Bao
Bao is London's answer to Momofuku's Ssam Bar. Originating as a humble family-run market stall, Bao is a modern day food success story, now with two permanent locations in central London. Based on Taiwanese street food, the restaurant keeps the menu short and simple. The star of course is the bao (bun)—with six options to choose from including the classic Braised Pork and the oh-so-tempting fried malty Horlicks ice cream bao. Be prepared to sacrifice an hour or two of your day waiting in what feels like a permanent queue, but when you reach the other side, you won't look back.
Bao Fitzrovia 31 Windmill Street, W1T 2JN; Bao Soho 53 Lexington Street, W1F 9AS; Original BAO BAR Netil Market, 13–23 Westgate Street, E8 3RL.
Barrafina
Not only a restaurant but a full immersive, theatre experience that routes you firmly in the heart of Spain, Barrafina seats customers on bar stools surrounding an open kitchen where chefs frantically prepare seasonal tapas dishes while wait staff explain every element of the menu so passionately you would think they grew the padron peppers themselves. The theatrical nature is appropos–two of the restaurant's locations are located in Covent Garden, London's theatre district. Like most London restaurants, there is a no reservation policy unless you take one of their private dinning rooms. However once you're in the doors, there is plenty of pintxo (Basque bite size snacks) and an abundance of Spanish wines and cava to see you through a sometimes long wait.
Barrafina Soho 54 Frith Street, London W1D 4SL; Barrafina Covent Garden 10 Adelaide Street, London WC2N 4HZ; Barrafina 43 Drury Lane, Covent Garden, London WC2B 5AJ.
Artusi
The idea of venturing 'south of the river' for a meal can put off many a Londoner. But Peckham, not the easiest link to central London, is swiftly housing an increasing number of independent establishments (like organic bodegas and date-night appropriate bars) celebrating artisan produce. Artusi fits right into the neighborhood and offers a pared back, relaxed Italian dining experience. The menu is unfussy, scribbled on a black board—popular dishes often sold out by 7pm. The ragu, made with freshly hand-made pappardelle, is a must-order if you get there early. And if you're a Campari lover, their take on the classic Negroni was recently voted best in town.
Artusi; 161 Bellenden Rd, London SE15 4DH, United Kingdom, +44 20 3302 8200.
Brawn
Positioned just off Columbia Road in East London—where a large part of the film Notting Hill took place (the blue door may be gone but the crowds are not)—Brawn is the idyllic setting for a cosy meal based on rustic French cooking. The menu is dependent on seasonal produce and the wine list is heavy with biodynamic and organic options. Just as in France, each table is greeted with freshly baked sourdough provided by the neighboring E5 Bakehouse, a locally-based and London-renowned artisanal bread shop. For a slightly more British feel, try the Sunday Lunch menu: three courses which generously engulf the table. And don't leave without trialling the cheese, all French, all a must.
Brawn; 49 Columbia Rd, Bethnal Green E2 7RG, +44 0207 729 5692.
La Bodegra Negra
Mexican food in London is often hit and miss and lacking in options, so when La Bodegra Negra came to town, it was big news. Located in Soho and disguised as a sex shop, you enter via fluorescent lights, past a burly man with a clipboard and a cloakroom. But yes, you're in the right place. The vibe is buzzy but the meal relaxed. Diving into all the usual suspects, the menu is made up of small dishes, tacos and tostaditas, so make sure you're with friends who like to share. Special mention must go to the Grilled Corn with zesty chipotle and herbs—perhaps a regular in New York but a special find in this country. Their margaritas don't disappoint either–all of them are made with fresh fruit juices and don't feel jam-packed with sugar and additives.
La Bodegra Negra; 9 Old Compton Street, W1D 5JF, +4402077584100.
Dishoom
Dishoom takes Indian dining far beyond the curry houses engulfing London. This post-colonial Bombay-inspired restaurant/café has become a London foodie institution since its first location in Covent Garden opened its doors six years ago. From the décor of peeling plaster walls, intricate tiled floors, shuttered windows and ceiling fans to the undeniable food, the concept lives up to its name. Dishoom translates to a dramatic sound effect in bygone Bollywood movies when you take a hit to the face–and this place doesn't punch lightly. Expect queues for signature dishes like Keema Pau, a classic 20th century dish of spiced Lamb; the House Dahl, each batch cooked for more than 24 hours; aromatic Biryani pots for a new approach to sharing rice and the most Instagrammed item on the menu—The Bacon Naan roll, best washed down with Bottomless Chai. Few things in life are better.
Dishoom Shoreditch 7 Boundary Street, E2 7JE,+4402074209324; Dishoom King's Cross 5 Stable Street, N1C 4AB, +44 020 7420 9321; Dishoom Carnaby 22 Kingly Street, W1B 5QP, +44 02074209322; Dishoom Covent Garden 12 Upper St. Martin's Lane,WC2H 9FB, +44 02074209320.
Lyle's
Set inside an uber-cool converted tea factory in Shoreditch, Lyle's is appropriately stripped back and minimal in décor. But when it comes to the menu, more is more. Head chef James Lowe and his team offer a modern British menu that changes daily. Dinner is a set meal so if you're not open to experimentation, then come at lunchtime when you can opt for the à la carte menu. Expect to find dishes involving traditional Great British favorites with a Lyle's twist: Monkfish liver, Sweetbreads and Treacle, all so beautifully presented you could easily mistake a tart for art. There is also no rush to turn tables–this experience is designed to be leisurely. Expect a calm two to three hours per sitting. In Shoreditch, this is bliss.
Lyle's; Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street, E1 6JJ, +4402030115911.
Nopi
Yotam Ottolenghi is London's answer to hosting the perfect dinner party. Heavily influenced by his Israeli and Italian background, this British chef knows how to win over a crowd. His delis are scattered across London's most desirable areas, packed with seasonal produce, fresh salads and pastries that stare you down from overloaded plates packed high on immaculate white open counters. Nopi is the chef's first proper restaurant. Much more refined and sophisticated than its café counterparts, expect to find business lunchers, pre-theatre diners and a couple of famous faces. The menu changes seasonally but it wouldn't be Ottolenghi without the appearance of roasted eggplant, Jerusalem artichokes and a scattering of pomegranate molasses.
Nopi; 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE, +442074949584.
The Dairy
A South London favorite, The Dairy spills onto the pavement in front of Clapham Common making it an ideal spot to people watch during the day. Dishes involve Nordic inspired fare made from the best of British produce. Fish is sourced from an independent supplier in Cornwall and all herbs and honey are created on the premises' own rooftop kitchen garden. The Dairy takes every ingredient very seriously. After hours, the truly unique "Bloodshot Supper Club" takes place on the last Saturday of every month; aimed at hard working restaurant staff with nowhere decent to eat after their final service and open to all food lovers prepared to dine their way into the wee hours.
The Dairy; 15 The Pavement, Clapham SW4 0HY, +442076224165.
Salon
Hiding in the hustle and bustle of Brixton sits Salon, an intimate room housing no more than 12 tables above a delicatessen serving artisan cheese and charcuterie as well as beyond-delicious brownies made on site. Everything about Salon is hand crafted and homely, even down to the planks of wood carved into communal dining tables. Its knowledgeable staff are used to questions: common thanks to a menu filled with ingredients like Nduja, Stichelton and Monk's Beard. A set menu is offered in the evenings for £33 per person, but we suggest finding yourself in Brixton on a Saturday morning just for the Salon brunch.
Salon; 18 Market Row, Coldharbour Lane, SW9 8LD; +44 2075019152.
The Wolseley
This grand art deco café-restaurant is located on swish Piccadilly, West London, neighboring The Ritz. From the moment the British doorman, equipped with top hat, swoops back the velvet curtains for you to enter, the space immediately takes you to another world. Once a prestigious car showroom, The Wolesley is now a stately dining arena that rivals the European glamour of Vienna and Paris' finest brasseries. Don't be surprised to rub shoulders with Britain's elite as they return for the famed menu that incorporates a little bit of French, a little British and even American classics. For the ultimate British experience, visit in the afternoon for the tiers upon tiers of cakes, pastries and scones, served with homemade jam and clotted cream.
The Wolesley; 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB, +442074996996.
Street Food Markets
A special shout-out needs to be made for the street food markets taking London by storm. Borough Market is the most famous option, actually located behind London Bridge (and surprisingly not that near to Borough at all—a mistake made all too often). It offers everything from French 'saucisson' to locally-made cider. Venture a little further east for Maltby Street Market, home of Monty's Deli's famous Salt Beef. Meanwhile Broadway Market was made for the inner hipster in all of us, and don't miss its younger sibling Netil Market in the schoolyard next door, less hectic and the original home to Bao. For a more buzzy and boozy option head straight for Dinerama, housed in a derelict Shoreditch junkyard—part party scene, part food market—open until late all summer long.
