The floor shook as a tap dancer jumped and spun on a raised platform. It was the only soundtrack that could be heard during the Puppets and Puppets show. And while it might have been an unusual approach for a runway show, it was — as fans of the emerging label would be happy to tell you — extremely on-brand.
Puppets and Puppets has swiftly become one of the New York fashion world's favorite new labels since it launched in 2019 as an art-project-meets-fashion platform. Each show brings an aspect of performance: Last season, models paraded down the catwalk in cheese hats. Absurdity is everything in this world, and wearability is nothing but a concept waiting to be challenged. Architectural shapes defy the human body. The brand's best-selling product is a black bag with a resin cookie attached to its front. The surrealism is the point.
This season, however, designer Carly Mark wanted to rethink the her typical approach and design pieces that she herself would wear, out in the real world. She was inspired by her own wardrobe, but also by life post-pandemic. Oh, and darkness. "The theme is coven, so it's very New York, powerful witch vibes," Mark told us, before the show. "I was going through this moment of reclaiming my confidence and power after such a difficult, tumultuous period of time. We started socializing again and we're trying to integrate ourselves back into society, finding ourselves in this new normal. It's about gaining confidence and finding yourself and finding your inner power in a very visceral way."
The result? Hand-knit sweaters in inky black with brocade corsets, black moire court shoes, hand-crocheted belts, sequin sweaters, suit pants, fishnet sleeves, and printed tailored coats. Black was the focus and, for Mark, surely self-reflective. "I wear a lot of black. I'm a New York woman. I'm a powerful lady. I get stuff done," she said. "I think it's the right time to do a witchy season. I'm kind of witchy myself and I'm very drawn to things that are now feeling pagan."
Upon first glance, it may have felt like a little bit of the brand's silliness had been lost. Was this an intentional move as the brand continues to evolve and gain stockists like Bergdorf Goodman? But glimpses of absurdist humor could still be seen in the accessories and some of the unexpected details, like the wooden bat necklace, or the resin pumpkins and carrots strapped to bags. One standout dress had profoundly large bows strapped to the back. You could picture it on any number of powerful New York witches.
Puppets and Puppets
