To love a fading person is to live in constant limbo—bodies are fragile but spirits are not. Sometimes, a very sick loved one seems completely in the shadow realm, and then—like the flick of switch—they brighten into who they were. Who they are. Well, you get it.
Brandon Maxwell does, anyway. The Texas-born designer has always used his beloved (and extremely stylish) grandmother as a springboard for his shows, his sewing techniques, and his deep love of luxe American sportswear. But aging isn’t easy and Maxwell's "Meemaw" has Alzheimers Disease, which has caused the designer's biggest fan to sometimes forget the man she helped strengthen into a New York fashion force.
His Fall/Winter 2022 collection was a tribute to her and the family she built, including a closing floral print on Karlie Kloss that was originally designed—and painted in watercolor—by Maxwell's grandfather as part of "a literal valentine." It was also a working thesis on walking grief, a.k.a. the sadness we can haul around daily, even as we create joyful things. Colors were shades of gray and brown, silhouettes were kept like emotions—very close to the chest. Over some corset tops and bodice dresses were huge cocoons of textured knitwear, a protective layer and also perhaps an easy out for the times we just need to curl up in a ball, even when we're at a party.
But though this show was an emotional exhale for Maxwell, it might be a boost for women looking for wardrobes that work smart instead of try hard. Besides welcome brown-and-black color combos (don't let anyone tell you it's not okay to mix!), Maxwell made double-collared trench coats in crinkled stiff silk, and massive suede bags for those who carry the world (or at least several books and a laptop) on their shoulders. There was also slim-cut denim, because it's chic no matter what TikTok says—especially paired with one of Maxwell's crisp white shirts.
Brandon Maxwell Fall 2022 Show
