The Highlights of London Fashion Week
From killer sound tracks to an emphasis on a fashion democracy—the city known for young, edgy designers didn't disappoint.
Fashion is in flux—with brands deciding who will go direct-to-consumer and who will stand staunchly old guard in a hot debate. But London is a place that's hip to change—known for its innovative, cutting-edge designers. Brands like Topshop showed fun, young clothes for It girls on the same day McQueen returned to the London runways with a dreamy couture-like collection. Marc Jacobs sat front row to see the fresh talent at Fashion East and Emma Hill showed her second collection (direct-to-consumer!) days before Mulberry introduced its new creative director's first runway. Duro Olowu held staunchly to his two-seasons per year agenda with a tightly edited collection and introduced a lapis, gold and diamond jewelry collaboration with Sydney Garber. Palmer/Harding expanded on the idea of poplins, Natasha Zinko delighted with a presentation of dramatic silhouettes and candy colored slip dresses at Claridge's, Simone Rocha took the collective breath away with a collection that seemed to float through the opulent Lancaster House and Ashish held a disco—complete with glittering afro wigs. And all of that in just five days. See more highlights from London Fashion Week Fall 2016 below.
McQueen Comes to London
Though McQueen himself and creative director Sarah Burton are Brits by birth, the brand has historically shown in Paris. For the brand's first season in London in 15 years, creative director Burton, quite pregnant with her third child, brought all the drama and couture spirit of the City of Lights to her hometown with a heart-stopping, beautiful collection, inspired, quite literally, by dreams. There were Belle Époque gowns, cosmic references, surreal imagery, glittering jewelry, lace and butterflies—in other words, a dreamscape set in rainy London.
Get Your One of a Kind Burberry
Jake Bugg, on guitar with just one spotlight, situated in the middle of a velvet benches in a darkened room, set the stage for an intimate Burberry runway. If the idea was to make the Burberry girl (and boy) feel at home and top of mind, the theme didn't stop there. The British power brand is going direct-to-consumer in September, this season the full collection was displayed for the first time at the Regent Street store location and each of the patchwork python handbags will be one of a kind. Meaning, no two bags will be exactly the same—and what girl doesn't love something that only they can have?
Mary Katrantzou's Soundtrack Makes You Smile
Katrantzou started this season with the idea of dress up—becoming the cowboy or the ballerina. The reigning themes were '50s Americana and Romeo and Juliet—think Western inspired jackets and intricate, printed chiffon gowns. If childhood make-believe and young love aren't enough to make you smile—a sound track of Dolly Parton, Lynn Anderson and other country girls could make even the coldest fashion heart melt. It's true, we never did promise anyone a rose garden.
Here's the full soundtrack for your downloading pleasure:
1. Save the Last Dance by Dolly Parton
2. The Ballad of Lucy Jordan by Marianne Faithfull
3. Angel of The Morning by Juice Newton
4. You Don't Have to Say I Love you by Cher
5. (Finale) Rose Garden by Lynn Anderson
J.W. Anderson Does Democracy
J.W. Anderson's show notes held only a quote from interior designer David Hicks, which read, "The freedom of the individual to make his own choice and the vast range of possibilities from which he may choose." With David Cameron issuing a referendum to determine whether the United Kingdom will leave the E.U and America in an election year, the voice of the citizen is certainly trending. For his part as fashion designer, Anderson provided a range of possibilities for Fall—fur hoodies, rose printed padded leather tops, ruffles upon ruffles, futuristic pilgrim tops, shirt dressing, clothes in red, blue, yellow and nearly every neutral.
The Erdem Set
Erdem never fails to charm—how could a man who's that good with a floral print? His Fall 2016 runway was a mix of '30s bias cut gowns and the intricate tailoring of the '40s with an emphasis on details—sequins, feathers, lace, ruffles, collars and gloves. All of it was shown on a stunning stage with giant chandeliers, velvet chairs, white urns—by set designer Robin Brown and inspired by an Oliver Messel design for opera or film—set to the sounds of Bette Davis from "All About Eve" and accompanied with a booklet at your seat including memorabilia like Lauren Bacall's mugshot. Talk about attention to detail.
Marques' Almeida's Creative Class
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida found success right out of the gate with their cool interpretation of denim. With Beyonce and Rihanna on full blast, this design duo knows how to bring the fun—putting an emphasis on street wear for the season and casting some of their friends from the fields of art, journalism and photography to walk the runway. They have just the kind of innovative, capricious, colorful attitude we look for from London.
Mulberry's Return to the Runway
Mulberry returned to the London runway after a two-year hiatus, welcoming new creative director Johnny Coca—previously accessories designer at Celine. The results were English-heritage cool with an emphasis on outwear—and of course, bags. They came color-blocked, ladylike, netted and meshed—and ready to spark a conversation on what exactly this new Mulberry will be all about.
Anya Hindmarch's Game Face
In the past, she's done spinning teacups, artful alcoves, traffic stops and now real life gaming. This season, Anya Hindmarch's runway was a giant, arcade-game inspired checkerboard with sliding pieces moving along to a Giorgio Moroder soundtrack. The bags included rainbow grids, pixelated creatures and Pac Man-esque heads. It's technology circa the 1980s and the nostalgia feels right on time.
