Jane Herman has denim in her blood. An L.A. native, she’s been in the business since her teenage years, when she worked behind the jean bar at her dad’s store on Melrose. A longtime editor with a newsletter devoted to denim, Jane on Jeans, she is also the founder of brand the Only Jane, which counts as its signature shape the curvy-yet-straight Georgia jean. Below, as part of Bazaar's Jeans Queens denim guide, she delves into her denim philosophy.
On her approach to buying jeans: Don’t be afraid to go after what you love. I really believe that you should wear the jeans that make you feel like your natural self. Trends should never be first on your list. If you wear skinnies, go after skinnies. If you know that high-rises really work for you, does it matter that the trends are moving towards mid-rises again? Just wear what makes you feel good.
On the elements to look for: I’m sensitive to fabric, and I tend to like 100 percent cotton denim better than anything that has stretch. (Up to a 2 percent stretch is also fine.) If I’m shopping for vintage, I always look at the wash first, before the fit, because that is the one thing in a jean you cannot change.
On her favorite jeans: I think a straight leg is the most versatile fit, and I like jeans that are made locally in the USA. B Sides is made in NY; I love their jeans and their washes. I’m really into the Japanese selvedge column jeans from Levi’s right now, too. The Georgia jean that I designed has a bit of a curve, and from the front I wanted it to look straight, because I just love a straight leg. And of course it comes in a vintage wash (as well as an amazing salt color!).
Levi’s Japanese Selvedge Column Jeans
B Sides Plein Relaxed Straight Vista Blue
The Only Jane Georgia Jean in Vintage Blue
On developing her signature Georgia style: I’m in my early 40s, I have two kids, and I live in Los Angeles. I wanted an ease, some room in my leg, especially around my thighs and hips. I need to be able to squat down and pick things up. I’m on the floor a lot, not just for my kids but for my work—you put clothes on the floor, you lay things down and you look at them, and then you get on your hands and knees and make adjustments. I wanted to mix the timelessness of the straight leg with a bit of the current trend towards baggier, looser, more relaxed fits.
Her go-to denim resources:
Jean Genie Vintage – Great place to buy vintage jeans online, curated by Meg Younger. She’s amazing—I write about her all the time on my Substack.
Junkyard Jeans – This place in Boise, Idaho, is run by Eric Schrader, the expert’s expert on vintage jeans. He knows more about vintage denim than anyone I’ve ever met.
Atelier Vintage – They sell vintage, customs, and Levi’s curated one-by-one.
The Future Past – Behind the incredible alterations and mending operations is Lindsey Hansen, based in San Francisco. Of course, it’s always better to go in person, but you can also ship her stuff. I would send your favorite pair of jeans and something you want altered, and then she can match.
Denim Doctors – Vintage store and repair shop, run by Zip Stevenson, who’s kind of a legend in L.A.
