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#SkinSchool: The best face oils, and the skin types they suit
Confused by face oils? See everything you need to know here
The skincare market has become awash with face oils in recent years; whether you’re after firmer skin, a brighter glow or deeper hydration, there’s a formula promising to deliver.
While the chilly climes of winter spur many of us to reach for a silky, soothing oil, the very notion of applying such formulas to the skin still strikes fear in some – surely, more oil equals more problems? Even if you’re already on board with face oils, mystery surrounding how to use them correctly (bigger still, how they actually work) abounds.
Here, we call on the experts to divulge the truth on face oils, from how they should be harnessed to the skin types that should be slathering them on. Read on for everything you need to know...
What is a face oil, and what do they do?
Contrary to popular belief, face oils are not simply mega moisturisers: in fact, they aren’t classed as moisturisers at all. As oils are not humectants, they can’t pull moisture in from the surrounding environment, and therefore cannot actually hydrate the skin.
As Dr. Bibi Ghalaie explains, oils should not be billed as moisturisers, “as they do not sink into the dermis and bind water to skin cells like moisturising creams or ointments do.” Instead, they sit on the skin’s surface (the epidermis) and prevent water from leaking out.” In this way, they can be considered a good sealant (an ‘occlusive’) for the skin, helping to form a protective layer.
Where do face oils sit in a routine?
It’s because of this occlusive nature that oils must be applied as the last step in your skin routine: slather a serum on top, and it won’t penetrate the oil, rendering it useless. However, applying a nurturing oil over the top of a good hyaluronic acid treatment, for example, will seal the deal, ensuring you get the most from your product.
“For me an oil is a booster product that can be used when needed, rather than an everyday staple – unlike a hydrator, which should be used every day” says Debbie Thomas, advanced skin and laser expert at D. Thomas Clinic. “A few drops of oil could be a better option than constantly switching moisturisers when you feel you need a little more of a boost.”
Which skin types do face oils suit?
According to Thomas, dry skin types will benefit most from a face oil: “especially skin with flaky dry patches, or a tight, dry sensation,” she says.
However, Dr. Ghalaie believes that almost every skin type can benefit from an oil: the key is simply using the right one. “Actually, all skin types can potentially benefit from an oil. The trick to using one in your skincare routine correctly and successfully is to select an oil that is well suited to your particular skin type” she says.
Acneic and easily congested skin should approach face oils with caution – but there's no need to discount them completely. Some oils are notorious pore-cloggers – as a general rule, avoid mineral oil, coconut and argan oils on the skin – but others, like tea tree and jojoba can work wonders for breakout-prone and easily upset complexions. As Thomas adds, a small amount of a well-chosen oil can even work to counteract the drying effects of traditional acne medications, such as benzoyl peroxide and tretinoin. There is no hard and fast rule – the key is to find the formula that works for you, and stick to it.
“The heaviness of an oil is determined by its molecular weight and this will affect which skin type it can be used on,” says Dr. Ghalaie. For example, jojoba oil is extremely lightweight and helps dissolve sebum, so it’s perfect for combination skin, while grape seed oil has astringent properties and is suited to oily skin. Drier skin needs a heavier oil and particularly ones rich in oleic acid, which is very hydrating and helps to seal in moisture – try almond and marula oils. And for sensitive skin, Dr. Ghalaie recommends aloe vera and moringa, which have strong anti-inflammatory properties.
Are essential oils good for skin?
Much has been made of the use of essential oils – such as tea tree, lavender and peppermint – due to their tendency to cause reactions in sensitive skin. Not all face oils contain essential oils, but some brands use them heavily, thanks in no small part to their aromatherapeutic powers.
“Essential oils, which are fragranced, are not the same as non-fragranced oils,” says Thomas. “Essential oils do have some benefits but are much more likely to cause irritation and reactions, so it’s best to avoid them.”
As Dr. Ghalaie adds, some essential oils – she namechecks tea tree and lavender – are generally extremely well tolerated (and beneficial) to skin, but others should be avoided, as “they are considered high risk in terms of causing sensitivity and adverse reaction on the skin.” The main offenders? “Cinnamon, clove, lemongrass and black pepper oil are notorious for causing skin reactions,” she says, and should never be used around the eye area or on inflamed, broken skin. Thankfully, these oils are very rarely found in skin products today.
What’s more, those with nut allergies should never use oils derived from nut trees, and certain citrus oils can cause increased sun sensitivity.
Below, discover the very best face oils to try now, from a fragrance-free soother for sensitive skin, to the ultimate hydrator for eternally dry complexions.
The best face oil for every skin type
"Meet America's latest beauty export, True Botanicals, which has arrived here bearing stellar face oils for all," says Bazaar's multiplatform beauty director, Bridget March.
"There is one for for sensitive types (Calm), one for dry skin (Renew), and one for the oily and breakout-prone (Clear). All three amplify radiance, quenching skin while imparting a very real looking glow, yet they also target specific concerns with unique formulations."
Each get rave reviews, but the Calm Pure Radiance Oil in particular will be a welcome addition to routines in these sub-zero climes. Powered by calendula, safflower and cannabidiol, it'll help quell angry redness and chronic dryness."
For a face oil that does more, turn to 111 Skin. The Harley Street stalwarts have cleverly formulated a 2.5% concentration of pure retinol and granactive derivatives in a blend of soothing, moisture-locking oils, meaning you get the retinol results (namely brighter skin and diminished wrinkles) without the oft-inevitable irritation.
In fact, you'll be surprised at how nourishing and softening this supercharged treatment feels: a single drop each evening soon delivers brighter, clearer and more unified skin.
Votary began as a face oil brand, and is now one of the leaders in the category, spotlighting the skin-nourishing powers of plant extracts. While there are several beautifully scented options in the collection, this fragrance-free oil is the one we call on when temperatures really plummet. Formulated with omega-rich seed oils, from borage to strawberry, it'll cocoon dry, upset skin for hours on end.
Tata Harper has created a few cult-hero products in her time, but this perhaps the most raved-about. Beloved for delivering benefits beyond its original purpose (users claim it tackles breakouts and bug bites), this powerful formula contains a host of innovative ingredients – including babassu seed oil, bisabolol and linden leaf – to calm, rejuvenate and brighten in one.
Note the potentially confusing product name here: this one doesn't actually contain retinol. In fact, it works well as a moisture-sealer over a retinoic serum or cream.
Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Luxury Facial Oil
Usually, the success of a face oil is all in the quality of the ingredients, rather than the complexity of the blend.
Proof that quality presides over quantity, Drunk Elephant's no-filler formula contains nothing more than high-grade, cold-pressed oil from the pip of the African marula fruit: an extract high in antioxidant and antimicrobial properties that soothes and protects all skin types.
For a heftier rejuvenating boost, there's also now the retinol-infused A-Gloei oil. Both are free from essential oils (as per the brand's ethos) and suitable for all skin types.
Révive Moisturizing Renewal Oil Triple Defense Hydrator
Révive's lipid-rich oil will deeply nourish dry and dehydrated skin types, but that's not where the benefits end. The sweet almond and meadowfoam seed oil base is boosted with a cocktail of antioxidant extracts – including turmeric and rice bran – to help keep skin cells protected against environmental pollutants. It's completely scent-free and luxuriously silky, making the most lacklustre of skin instantly soft and supple.
Skin Rocks The Support Oil
No-one has tested more products than industry stalwart Caroline Hirons, so its safe to say she knows exactly what we want from our skincare. The squalane and jojoba-based Support Oil is a barrier-nurturing SOS treatment that will help to correct dehydration, sensitivities, and the flaking dryness often brought on by retinoids.
Revered facialist Chelseé Lewis' 25 years of experience and knowledge of skin went into this face oil – her debut skincare formulation.
It's a blend of natural alternatives to traditional active skincare ingredients, (think vitamin A-enriched cacay oil; tunisian date seed extract – a source of essential fatty acids and vitamin E; and pracaxi oil, known to reduce the appearance of scars and pigmentation) alongside squalane for nourishment and the essential oils of frankincense, chamomile and sandalwood to promote relaxation.
We love to apply it before a nightly face and neck massage, though daytime use is recommended, too – it sinks into parched skin imparting a greaseless glow and plays well with SPF and/or make-up on top.
Omorovicza's prestige face oil is designed to act as an SOS treatment for dehydrated skin and upset barriers. It contains an omega-rich base of camelina, raspberry and chia seed oils that'll fortify the skin's outermost layer, and a host of antioxidants to protect skin from pollution. There's a light, sweet fragrance, and the texture is satisfyingly rich.
Allies of Skin CE15 Bakuchiol Firming Oil
Allies of Skin may be keen to spotlight the buzzy bakuchiol in this firming face oil, but it's more likely to be the 10 per cent vitamin C that brings about the brightening benefits. Orange in hue and and herbal in scent, this fatty acid-packed oil is a brilliant one to blend into a moisturiser for a major antioxidant boost.
From the Soho House group's recent skincare venture, this rich face oil is a brilliant one to add into your routine if the change in weather is leaving you wanting more moisture. Pomegranate and raspberry provide antioxidant power, while borage reinforces the skin barrier, keeping trans-epidermal water loss to a minimum.
REN Clean Skincare Bio Retinoid™ Youth Concentrate Oil
A go-to for those with sensitive skin, REN makes the kind of products that nurture every skin type back to peak health – even when there's snow in the forecast.
A saviour for the coldest months, this blend of plant oils smoothes and softens weather-ravaged skin, building up the skin barrier to stop dehydration lines and encouraging optimal collagen production within the cells.
Cult facial clinic Pfeffer Sal only stocks the most effacacious products, so you can place your trust in this probiotic-powered serum. The tiny (and essential oil-free) ingredients list comprises ximenia oil – an anti-inflammatory extract, sourced from the sour plum – alongside vitamins E and C to soothe and brighten simultaneously. For healthy, resilient skin that glows, this is your hero.
Long-loved skincare line Pai has recently had a revamp, but fans of the ultra-gentle Rosehip Bioregenerate oil need not worry, as it's the same stellar formulation inside. The packaging, however, is now more sustainable – right down to the biodegradable tamper seals on each recycled card box.
New to the formula? It's completely free from essential oils and designed with delicate skin in mind. Each bottle contains oil pressed from both the fruit and seeds of the rosehip plant, alongside soothing vitamin E and antimicrobial rosemary leaf. Loyalists claim it can fade acne scars and even soothe eczema.
If your skin is suddenly sensitised, rather than permanently sensitive, consider the brand's Light Fantastic oil instead. Full of ceramides, this one delivers quick relief to an irritated skin barrier, whether you're feeling red in the face or tight and sore. And if you're looking to manage breakouts, apply the Carbon Star oil to any active spots, using the Rosehip to help heal the skin in the days that follow.
Sunday Riley U.F.O. Ultra-Clarifying Face Oil
An oil may not be your first port of call when looking to bring down a breakout – in fact, you might just recoil at the thought – but Sunday Riley's salicylic-steeped formula is just the thing you need.
The calming, antibacterial base of black cumin, cucumber and milk thistle is powered up with a moderate dose of salicylic acid, which sinks into congested pores to clear up spots right from the source.
Mutha was crafted with pregnancy in mind, but you don't need to be expecting to benefit from this mega-restorative face oil. The skin-identical squalane base is blended with nutrient-dense plant extracts: think omega-rich camellia, brightening watermelon seed and anti-inflammatory turmeric. Use it in lieu of a moisturiser, or layer it on top for hydration that really goes the distance.
