The era-defining darlings of Nineties catwalk style — think Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and Calvin Klein — have found themselves some contemporary company in the most recent New York Fashion Week collections.
The latter made its return to the fashion week schedule after six years, headed up by new creative director Veronica Leoni. Rather than beginning her tenure by carving out something entirely new, Leoni's vision for Calvin Klein drew from its heritage and imbued the autumn/winter 2025 collection with sleek Nineties tailoring. Leoni's credentials for constructing a collection of luxury minimalism couldn't be stronger, having worked at The Row, Phoebe Philo’s Celine and Jil Sander.
Indeed, there were echoes of Philo's Celine and vintage Sander in the sharply tailored suits, column skirts, and classically conservative silhouettes which were contrasted by nipped-in waistlines and origami-style folded coats. There were square-toed slingback flats, glossy leather totes and even odes to the original CK One perfume bottle in recognisably shaped chain bags. It was Charlotte York art gallery chic, met with a modern sophistication.
"I think sexiness is such an intimate thing...regardless of the silhouette, the amount of skin or that kind of stuff, it's about the confidence," said Leoni of the debut collection.
The return of Nineties minimalism continued across New York, with Khaite and Brandon Maxwell also signalling the return of original 'quiet luxury' movement. It was a leather-clad affair at Khaite, with patent maxi skirts, inky trenches and elbow-length gloves shown alongside fluid draped dresses, statement leopard prints and neat top-handle bags.
Leather was a staple at Maxwell's show too, with buttery biker jackets, tailored A-line skirts and straight-leg trousers. Then there were the skin-tight turtleneck tops, high-neck maxi dresses and long-line wool coats with scarf-neck detailing which evoked the elegant New York workwear of the pre-Millenium decade.
While brands such as The Row and Toteme have cultivated a quietly minimalist movement in recent years (and many brands have followed suit), the Nineties look set for an even bigger revival come autumn/winter 2025, if the New York shows are anything to go by. The key takeaways across the catwalks were obvious; brights are out, with black and neutrals taking the fore. Hemlines have dropped, sitting between below the knee and the ankle, while asymmetrical necklines and draped silhouettes came out on top.
There's likely much to be said about the unstable political landscape of contemporary America and the desire to step into the refuge of nostalgia when it comes to our wardrobes. If this past week's shows were any indication, we expect to see more of the decade's influence unravelling across the rest of fashion month, with feminine takes on conservative tailoring and muted displays of power signalling a quiet backlash to the 'loud money' culture of the Trump era.
As it will be a few months before we're able to shop the looks from the catwalk, we've rounded up the best Nineties minimalist pieces that you can buy now, below.
Khaite Loxley leather maxi skirt
Staud Wally mules
St. Agni Draped maxi dress
