It was always going to be an odd, slight off kilter New York Fashion Week. With the threat of an imminent snowstorm, ongoing US political turbulence and the absence of some big names – Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Proenza Schouler – not to mention general chaos within the wider fashion industry (four big houses are currently without creative directors), the AW25 shows closed last week with Business of Fashion asking whether it was time to cut February from the New York schedule entirely. Well, no. While the weather could best be described as challenging, those who braved it were well rewarded. As well as the polished homegrown superbrands – Calvin Klein, Coach, Michael Kors, Thom Browne, Carolina Herrera and Tory Burch – there was big creative energy on offer from indie names: Khaite, Luar, Christopher John Rogers, Diotima. Not forgetting the incomparable Marc Jacobs, still committed to showing off-schedule, who opened the week by presenting his SS25 collection (yes, the one everyone else presented six months ago – fashion can be confusing) which was a masterclass in fantasy. As he said in the show notes: "With precious freedom we dream and imagine without limitation… not to escape from reality but to help navigate, understand and confront it."
1) Veronica Leoni's debut
You may have had enough of Quiet Luxury. And to be honest, we could all use a few less ‘takes’ on Phoebe Philo and The Row. But the debut Calvin Klein collection by Veronica Leoni, a 41-year-old Italian designer who has worked with the likes of, er, Phoebe Philo and The Row, was a genuine New York moment. With Calvin Klein himself seated front row beside muses Kate Moss and Christy Turlington, this was the first time the brand had shown on the runway since Raf Simons some six years ago. It was simple and streamlined, not as sensual as Calvin in his heyday, but a modern 24/7 wardrobe of sharp tailoring and draped jersey. Maybe there’s room for a bit more minimalism yet.
2) Michael Kors' optimism
Michael Kors is incapable of anything other than optimism. After all, he’s designed for 44 years – he’s been there, done that and got the (double-face triple-ply cashmere) T-shirt. No amount of gloom can affect him. "When the world is this crazy, you need to feel confident and comfortable," he said at a preview of his collection. "Fashion has gotten preposterous. Everyone wears too much make-up and has too much hair. We need to calm down." Minimalism isn’t for him, though: Kors is lush and luxe, high-end dressing for a very specific woman, one of whom happens to be Melania Trump. Kors carefully pointed out that she buys his clothes, rather than being given them ("She’s shopped in our Madison Avenue store for many years") before magnanimously agreeing that she wears them well.
3) It’s always leather weather
Khaite designer Catherine Holstein does the best jackets in town but for AW25 accessorised cashmere T-shirts and short-sleeved shirts with elbow length calfskin opera gloves, an easy styling trick to steal. Coach offered shrunken distressed leather jackets which looked like they’d gone through the wash, worn with oversize skater-inspired trousers – a silhouette echoed at Tory Burch, whose leather jackets were boxy and patchworked, the trousers in a gorgeous velvet. Swingy leather skirts at Brandon Maxwell and a belted leather trench at Kors confirmed it.
4) Stuart Vevers' commitment to sustainability
Stuart Vevers is probably Britain’s most commercially successful designer. It’s easy to forget that though as he’s been in NYC since 2013, transforming the fortunes of Coach, the most democratic of American brands. Charming the press backstage, while holding one of his four-year-old twins (their slippers inspired some furry teddy bear flats in the show), he talked about "listening to the younger generation" when thinking about the collection: "What I hear most from them is about self-expression. People being who they want to be and using fashion to give them that confidence." He knows this customer also cares about sustainability – a big deal for a company which works at such scale – and in 2023 he launched Coachtopia, a kind of sub-brand which aims for circularity. The leather here was pre-worn and reworked; the patina of age made for seductive storytelling. Even better, the gorgeous, embellished flapper dresses, worn 90s-style over baggy trousers, were actually vintage.
5) Tory Burch's modernity
Practicality and purpose are a foundation of American fashion. After all, this is the country which invented sportswear. Elevating the ordinary, you could say, has been Tory Burch’s mission for the last 20 years – her take is only getting stronger, even in a season where sportswear was to be found on almost every runway. Set inside MOMA, a chic location which perfectly suited the collection, this was an exemplary take on clothes which you could imagine running away with and wearing. Not minimal but modern, in every way.
