Conner Ives' 'Protect the Dolls' T-shirt highlights the importance of activism in fashion

Activism on the runways is nothing new; whether part of the designer's pre-planned collection or the stunt of an activist group, fashion week presentations offer a sure way to get out a message. What we're much less used to seeing is a creative director closing out their show with a more meaningful message.

A designer's post-show bow is often quick and without ceremony — blink and you might miss it. But at Conner Ives' autumn/winter 2025 show, the American-born designer took the opportunity to show his support for trans community, a group whose rights are currently under scrutiny by government bodies on both sides of the pond.

At the end of his show, Ives' stepped out in a white printed t-shirt which read 'Protect the Dolls'; the "dolls" referencing the term of endearment used in the LGBTQIA+ community for trans women.

But the T-shirt was more than just a message; Ives translated it into tangible action, donating all proceeds from sales of the design directly to Trans Lifeline, a trans-led charity in the US which delivers life-saving services to those in the community that need them.

Conner Ives Protect the Dolls t-shirt

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Since Ives unveiled the design in February, its simple yet vital statement has seen floods of support. In an interview with the New York Times, the designer shared his shock at the demand for the T-shirt; "It has now gotten to a point, like this past week, where we were putting up like 1,000 units in the morning and by the mid-afternoon they were gone." At the time that the article was published, net sales from the piece had climbed to just under £200,000.

Many members of the A-list are also using their platform to promote the shirt and its message. Designer Haider Ackermann has worn it, singer Troye Sivan was seen in the T-shirt while at Coachella earlier this month, and on Tuesday evening, Pedro Pascal stepped out at the Thunderbolts premiere in London wearing his own 'Protect the Dolls' piece.

It's the second time The Last Of Us actor has worn the design recently, having donned the shirt for his 50th birthday celebrations in the city just a few weeks before. The message is especially personal to Pascal, whose sister Lux came out as a trans woman in 2021.

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Ives' shirt has come at a vital moment. The trans community has always had to fight for support from wider society, but there's no doubt that the marginalised group is being increasingly targeted in right-wing politics across both the UK and US landscapes right now. Last week, the UK Supreme Court ruled that the legal definition of a woman should be based on biological sex with regard to the 2010 Equality Act, a decision that many transgender groups and activists fear will impact their day-to-day lives and result in an undoing of trans rights.

"Given the US Federal government's current hostility towards trans people, support like this is needed now more than ever," Ives writes on his website. The designer is continuing to work on restocking his 'Protect the Dolls' T-shirt, which you can sign up to pre-order here.