World-renowned fragrance house Maison Francis Kurkdjian is approaching its 15th anniversary, one cofounder and perfumer Francis Kurkdjian says is both long and short for a house of creation, especially compared with other enduring beauty brands.
"It’s been 15 years of breaking the boundaries, taking risks, of being carefree, and of dreams come true," he tells Bazaar. "Marc Chaya—CEO and cofounder of the maison—and I started the adventure on 5 rue d’Alger in Paris, our first store in the center of Paris. We are now in over 60 countries and my fragrances are in some 800 points of sale. We’ve built the maison with no advertising, by staying true to our values of authenticity and excellence, being creative, and moving people with out-of-ordinary creations."
Maison Francis Kurkdjian APOM Eau de Parfum
Among the maison's earliest creations were APOM—an acronym for A Part of Me—pour femme (women) and pour homme (men). Ahead of his company's latest industry milestone, the perfumer worked to update the scent as a new expression of his creative freedom. "I wanted to breathe new life into a pair of fragrances that were part of the maison’s portfolio at its inception, in 2009," Kurkdjian says. Previously available as two unique fragrances, APOM has been reimagined by the perfumer for 2024, combining the best features of its predecessors into a single, powerful scent that's amber-based and flowery, with a woody trail.
"Even though many people enjoyed the first versions, I, as a creator, was not fully and completely satisfied with the previous two iterations to bring them back as they were, but I wanted to revisit APOM," the perfumer continues. "Painters sometimes exercise 'pentimento' and go back to their previous works to improve them, correct certain elements in a way. I did the same with APOM and merged the best of both variations into a new creation: the feminine version’s sunny sensuality and the masculine version’s elegant addictiveness."
Somewhere between the first spritz and a few hours into wear, APOM is described as a conversation between the soul and the skin. And while the new blend's lavender, orange blossom, and amber notes lend to its sensual, intimate qualities, he says it shouldn't be considered a skin scent. "A skin scent to me has a negative meaning. All perfumes that are recommended by this name of 'skin scent' do not diffuse and have no technical quality to make them a great perfume," he explains. "Volume and diffusion are very important; they are part of the technical side of a fragrance and part of my signature as a perfumer." APOM's sillage, or the degree to which a perfume's fragrance lingers in the air when worn, is crafted to be long-lasting, allowing a part of the user to extend themselves through scent.
To celebrate the innovation of APOM eau de parfum while approaching the conversation of fragrance in a new way, the maison enlisted film director Cyril Teste to create a five-minute short film authentically capturing the mood of the scent. The short also offers a nod to advertising films that have inspired the perfumer in the past, decidedly going in the opposite direction of the short-form videos that currently rule the internet.
"The maison gives people a modern vision of perfume rooted in the excellence of French fine-fragrance-making," Kurkdjian adds. "It's a legacy rooted in several key pillars. From the beginning, our mission has been to infuse artistry and refinement into everyday life through scent. Fragrance isn't just for special occasions; it's an integral part of self-expression and personal well-being."
